Before getting a bird you should plan to spend some time researching the type of bird best suited to your particular life-style. An informed decision will help take the guess work out of which bird is right for you, preventing mistake and ensuring that the right pet goes with the right person. The following steps (1-6) may help you to decide whether a bird is the right pet for you:

• Step 1: Begin by identifying your reasons for wanting a pet bird.
• Step 2: Decide on the amount of time you have, during a regular day, to attend to a new bird. Birds require supervision and they need to get out of their cage on a daily basis.
• Step 3: Another important consideration is how much space, in your home, do you have? Enough for a Cockatiel cage or a Macaw cage?
• Step 4: Consider the bird's natural characteristics. The type of bird you choose should have personality traits that you can appreciate. Some birds tend to be nosier than others. This may be a big concern.
• Step 5: How much are you willing to spend on your new bir
d?
• Step 6: Once you have satisfied your reasons for getting a bird and there is no doubt about any of the considerations outlined above, you will need to shop for the source of the bird. Breeders are usually the best place to purchase a bird. Most bird breeders are generally very knowledgeable and have spent much time and effort in learning about the animals health and behavioral requirements. Normally they will also offer a health guarantee.

As with all parrots, the size of the cage depends on the size of the bird. At a minimum the parrot should be able to fully stretch out and flap its wings while sitting in the center of the cage. The cage should be a material that the bird cannot chew and if painted, the paint should not contain any lead! Although cages with vertical bars are more appealing to the human eye, cages with horizontal bars are easier for the birds to climb around.

A cage with a grating in the bottom is ideal since it prevents the bird from walking in it's own dropping and from eating fouled food. On the cage bottom newspaper is the easiest to use and should be changed daily. The cage should contain at least two perches of different sizes. Manzanita branches are great because each branch provides a variety of sizes. Bird feet get sore quickly if they don't have any variation in perch size!

A clean food dish and water dish are necessary and a separate dish for treats is often useful. Mineral block and cuttlebone should be provided to allow the bird to wear down its beak and to take in additional calcium.

Toys are the most important part of a cage to maintain the well being of your bird. Parrots are intelligent and curious birds and they need something to do all day. They also have a natural need to chew. Toys satisfy these needs. The best toys tend to be those that a bird can take apart. My birds prefer wooden toys that can be chewed up and toys with bells, stainless steel bells, you can also get plastic toys which will last a long time. You'll have to experiment to find out what your bird likes.

Lots of people like to have accessories for their birds outside of the cage. Playgrounds that sit on the top of the cage are quite popular with people who have their birds out most of the day. T-stand perches that can be moved around the house are very useful for people who like to keep their bird with them. There is even special perches for the shower and for the car.

I am a strong believer in pellet diets. These diets are formulated specifically for parrots to provide all the essential dietary components. A dish of clean pellet food should be available at all times for your bird. In a treat dish you might wish to provide a different snack each day such as seeds, sprouted seeds, fresh fruit, fresh vegetables, pasta, rice, bread, cereals and etc. Sprouted seed can be easily made by soaking seed overnight in regular water and then keeping it another day on a damp paper towel. Most birds love this treat! So long as the majority of your birds diet consists of pellets they can have a share of almost anything else you want to feed them.

Birds require an opportunity to bathe regularly. Some birds enjoy taking a shower with their owner. Other birds enjoy a spray misting from a plant mister. Most birds also like to take baths in a shallow dish of water or in the sink. Bathing allows birds to wash off any dirt or bird dandruff that has accumulated on their feathers.

I recommend that you trim your bird's wing feathers so that they can't gain lift when trying to fly. I have heard many stories of birds that never even tried to fly until the day they flew away.

The first time you have your bird's wings trimmed you should have a professional do it for you. After that you may try on your own if you feel comfortable with the procedure. The basic ideal is simply to trim off the ends of the outer primary flight feathers. Depending on the flying ability of the bird this may be just two feathers or it may be five or six on each side. Most parrots also need to have their nails trimmed on occasion. This is another procedure that you should have taught to you by a professional before proceeding on your own.

As with any pet it is in your birds best interest if you find a good avian veterinarian BEFORE you have a problem.

The most common bird emergency involves breaking a newly-emerging feather. When feathers are growing in the vein down the center is full of blood. If one of these feathers breaks it is like inserting a drainage pipe into your birds blood supply. It's important to have needle nose pliers and a blood coagulant like "Kwik Stop" on hand at all times. The feather must be removed at the base with the pliers and the coagulant can be applied to stop any further bleeding. Other emergencies such as falls and illness must be treated by a veterinarian. Your familiarity with your birds habit's should clue you in if they are not feeling well.

There are many books available on the keeping of parrots. Even if your species is not specifically discussed most of these books contain good basic information on keeping your bird healthy, happy and on understanding bird body language. I recommend subscribing to a bird magazine like BIRD TALK for a year or so until you think you understand how to deal with your bird. It is best to learn as much as possible before obtaining a new pet and to continue learning after you bring it home.

Tail bobbing sitting "down on the perch" (crouching over its feet) and sitting on the floor of the cage.

Sneezing, clicking respiration (cough), brown stained feathers above the nostrils (runny nose), or breathing difficulty.

A change in or loss of voice or sing.

Behavior changes, they become sleepy (eyes closing), less active and withdrawn.

There is a change in appetite.

Your bird drinks more water than normal.

Droppings become loose or change in color.

The number of droppings decreases. Count the number of droppings daily when changing the cage. Fewer droppings may indicate that your bird is not eating well.

Your bird "fluffs up".

A long molt and scratching or picking feathers occurs.

1. Wash your fresh veggies carefully to remove any trace of pesticide or preservatives.

2. NEVER, Never feed avocado. The seed is coated with a substance toxic to birds. It is very deadly.

3. Do not offer chocolate, it contains theobromine, a chemical potentially toxic to birds.

4. Do not offer your bird foods or drinks that contain caffeine.

5. Do not allow your bird to drink alcoholic beverages.

6. Do not let soft foods sit overnight. Do not let them sit more then 10 hours in warm weather. They will grow mold and your bird can become sick from this.

7. As you prepare veggies for your own meals, offer bits to your baby. When you serve meals also prepare small dishes for your birds containing items on the menu such as pasta, chicken and other meats.

8. Chicken bones with some meat left on are relished by many birds, as are pork and beef bones. Be sure the meat is well cooked.

9. Beans are a good source of protein. Soak them and (or) boil a mixture of several types of beans. Freeze them in serving size containers, thaw and serve each day with baby's other soft mix.

10. Nuts, sunflower, and peanuts make a fine occasional treat, but limit the amount of sunflower and other fatty seeds and nuts. Remember, nuts and seeds, especially sunflower seed, is like giving human children candy.

1. Use a plastic office mat under your cage. This helps with the clean up.

2. Allow droppings to dry on carpets or upholstered furniture, then loosen the dropping with a soft toothbrush before vacuuming.

3. Avoid using cob, wood shaving, or walnut shells in the bottom of the cage. Bacteria from spilled foods and feces grow in hours in these materials. Newspaper will work just fine and never use colored paper.

4. The use of a water bottle will cut down the risk of bacterial build-up in the water dish. Bacteria will grow in water in 8 hours, not to mention when they dump their food in the water or use it as a toilet. Make sure that you get a glass water bottle that can be sterilized. Another wonderful thing about having a water bottle on your cage, is, if you need to go away overnight your worries about your bird not having water because he dumped it or played in it are greatly reduced.

5. Wash & disinfect toys regularly. Keep them free from old food and droppings.

6. Wash food and water dishes with hot soapy water daily. If using a water bottle, wash it weekly. It is a good idea to disinfect them weekly. Bleach will work (1 part bleach to 5 parts water).

7. Keep perches free of dried droppings to avoid contamination and sore feet. Let them sun dry when washed.

Here are some ways to help entertain your baby. Birds are extremely intelligent and can become bored. I have compiled ways to help you keep your baby entertained.

1. Avoid any toys that can catch toenails, toes, wings, beaks, or leg bands.

2. Allow your baby plenty of playtime out of his cage, if possible, everyday.

3. Change your bird's toys frequently.

4. Allow your baby to play with appropriately sized toys that are safe. Do not crowd your bird's cage.

5. Try placing the cage in a spot where your bird can watch the birds outside. But be sure they can get out of the direct sunlight, and that they are not in a draft.

6. Birds enjoy music as much as you do. Share your musical activities, leave your radio station on while you are away.

7. Offer your bird a clean, non-toxic tree branch to chew on and destroy. Wash any trace of pesticide or feces from the branches.

8. Let your bird play with untreated pine cones. They love them!

9. Save your cereal boxes, and cardboard rolls from paper towels. Birds love to chew them up.

10. Give your bird rawhide dog toys to chew and destroy. Replace them if they get feces or wet.

11. Tie a thick rope to the top of your bird's cage and let it dangle to the floor. Many of the larger birds like to climb up and down the ropes and will enjoy the exercise.

12. String wooden dowel with leather or string and attach them to the cage. They will go nuts!

Most breeders have a health guarantee policy. This is for everyone's protection. Your best guarantee is purchasing from a clean well kept breeder. If the cages are dirty with food and droppings, chances are they are not cleaned on a regular basis. Make sure you have your baby checked by vet within the 3 day period. If they are reputable they themselves will suggest a thorough checkup.

Until your baby has time to adjust to the new surroundings it's best to keep them in a quiet less traveled area. Put the cage where they can see the family, allowing them time to know the sounds and movements without the fear .

Birds are easily frightened by quick movements or loud noises. Never use quick movements or jerking away motion the baby might see this as aggression or threats to their safety.

Make sure you have a play area away from the cage this is a big step in keeping them from becoming cage bound. Don't let them sit inside the cage even if they won't come out. Take them out! Each time you pick up your bird always say up, If they learn nothing else this will be one of the most important things you can teach your bird..down being the second thing.

Even if your bird doesn't seem to be interested in the fruits and veggies offer them daily...trying different times of the day. This is especially true for the larger parrots. Corn seems to be a hit with almost all of the birds so it might be a good start for your bird. Make sure the food is fresh.

Make sure to clean all dishes or bowls out with soap and water every night. When leaving dirty food or water dishes you are only asking for problems for your bird and your peace of mind not to mention your pocketbook. Mold, bacteria and bugs can lurk behind dirty bowls if left unattended causing your bird to eventually get ill. Be sure the cage is also cleaned at least once a week. Check food and water dishes for bird droppings. Droppings in food or water can make your bird extremely ill. Make sure they have fresh pellets/seed along with fresh water.

This is not really a subject that you need to hear because more than likely you are giving your bird plenty of love and affection. The most important thing to remember is NOT to give them anymore affection or time than you will be able to give them in the future. You would not want to have a brat ! It is a great to bond to a baby bird. It can be a curse for the baby if your not able to spend the time with her. She wants the attention but won't accept it from someone else. This is why you should socialize them with all members of the family, it is very important during the first few weeks at home. It is also great for the bird to spend quality time on their own this will build confidence and security in their surroundings. This will help ease the time when human companions are unavailable.

After awhile your baby becomes very perceptive on how to get your attention....yelling, screaming, calling your name, they learn which one works best . If you here a scream of pain or any other sound that would alert a potential problem by all means go immediately, otherwise don't rush to your babies first call or maybe even the second. If they are bored they will quiet down after realizing your not coming at that exact moment. If they do indeed want something they will call again . Birds are very smart and I feel they do understand what we tell them. If you are busy explain this to your bird. "Mommy will be there in a minute...play with your toys"

We like the idea of our baby riding our shoulder perhaps just because we love them so much we want them with us. Whatever the reason I feel this is the wrong place to put any bird. No matter how tame a bird is they will try to alert or protect their family the only way he knows how. Biting!!!! And they have to much control on your shoulder. If you are holding your bird on your shoulder and something alerts them to what they perceives as danger they will bite you....on your neck...cheek...ear...nose...or lip. They are not doing this to be mean, just to warn you. Many injuries happen from birds riding on the shoulders of their owners. You have more control if they are on your arm or hand.

African Greys have a hefty reputation, often causing people to place a lot expectation on their eventual performance. True or not, Greys are referred to as the most intelligent, the best speakers, the most neurotic and among the shyest of companion parrot species. They routinely demonstrate perceptual (problem solving and reasoning) abilities. They out talk many other parrot species. Many also bite, pluck their feathers and show a definite preference for only one human.

Let’s take a look at African Grey truths and myths
First, it’s important to know that there are two sub-species of African Grey -- the nominate sub-species, commonly called Congo African Grey and the lesser known Timneh sub-species. Both are from Africa, with Timneh found in a smaller area, including Liberia and the Ivory Coast region.

Congo Greys are larger, lighter colored and have a bright red tail. Timneh's fall into the 275-350 gram range and are a darker grey with maroon colored tail. While not enough Timneh's have been bred domestically to say with certainty, many breeders claim there is a definite personality difference between Congo and Timneh Greys. Timneh's are said to be less shy and potentially neurotic as Congo's.

Talking Ability
All African Greys have the potential to speak and imitate, not only human, but all manner of sounds and whistles. However, not all Greys speak well or at all. Some birds that are ignored in their cages imitate sounds and language very well. Others that are handled and allowed out of their cages on a regular basis may not speak. There’s no way to say who will talk and who won’t. However, most Greys do talk, starting after their first year of age.

Congo's and Timneh's appear to have the same talking ability, with the Congo voice slightly louder than the Timneh's -- as you would expect from a larger bird.

Sex does not appear to make a difference. I know of a female Timneh and a male Congo, both DNA sexed, that do not speak at all. Another male Timneh is one of the most talkative, with a large vocabulary, birds I have ever seen. Sally Blanchard’s female Congo, Bongo Marie, not only has an extensive vocabulary, but uses words and phases meaningfully. My own female Timneh, Jing, vocalizes a lot -- whistling with some words thrown in, demonstrating that she feels good. However, when she wants to communicate she uses only English language, knowing which words to use to describe her needs. She speaks clearly, in my voice, always with the the correct word or phrase to match her desire. Some Greys will not talk if someone is in the room with them. Actively interacting with them and talking to them, repeating the same sounds they are making, often makes them comfortable talking when you or others are in the room with them.

Feather Plucking
It is true that Greys are notorious feather pluckers. There are some who maintain that Timneh's are less neurotic than Congo's and are not apt to pluck or bite their feathers. This may be true. I have yet to see a Timneh who plucks for neurotic reasons.

Why do they pluck?
Greys pluck feathers for a variety of reasons. Sometimes boredom or not enough human interaction causes an African Grey to pull out its feathers. I have also seen birds that pluck because they get too much attention -- with the owner running over every time the Grey pulls out a feather. Others pluck because of dietary imbalances, or environmental problems, such as people smoking or the air too dry. Greys should have regular baths and exposure to some kind of moist air on a regular basis. African Greys who are emotionally abused by someone who bangs on their cage or routinely squirts them in the face with a spray bottle for discipline may pluck. A single frightening experience has caused Greys to become feather pluckers.

Any bird that plucks should first see a veterinarian. If the veterinarian cannot find a physical reason for plucking, behavioral problems should be explored. There is no question that African Greys are among the most intelligent parrot species. This higher degree of intelligence, along with possible incorrect early socialization at the breeders and not understanding the bird’s intellectual needs when it becomes a companion parrot often leads to neurotic habits -- such as plucking.

Why do Timneh's not pluck feathers as much?
Possibly because, until recently, they were not as popular -- having a duller color tail and smaller size -- as Congo's. Therefore, they were not bred domestically in large enough numbers to record feather plucking behavior. Or, they may actually have a more stable personality than their larger cousins, Congo African Greys. Whatever the reason, Timneh's are now being bred in much larger numbers, so in a few years we should have some accurate data comparing Timneh's with Congo African Greys.

Are African Greys Shy Birds?
African Greys bond strongly to one person. If they are not socialized on a regular basis with other people they may become very shy and introverted when people, other than their bonded person, are around. If a Grey lives in a household of more than one person they will often choose only one person for their bonded human, ignoring or even attempting to drive away the other person. I have seen Greys act like hormonally driven Amazons during mating season, attacking anyone who came too close to their preferred human. Like Amazons, it appears the male is the more aggressive of the two sexes.

While African Greys are not as cuddly as some other species, such as cockatoos, they do enjoy frequent mutual preening from their bonded human. Light head, neck and face scratching is a must for African Greys. I believe that Greys who do not receive some kind of preening or scratching from their owners are birds who may easily develop behavioral problems, such as biting, plucking or screaming. Of course, like any other intelligent parrot, there’s a fine line between enough and too much. Your Grey should have special times for head scratching and times when he or she amuses themselves with toys or other diversions.

There appears to be some amount of sexual stimulation for adult male Greys related to preening. If your Grey starts mouthing your fingers, then biting when you scratch its head or neck it may be a sexual response, rather than an angry bird. Once you understand the underlying cause, it’s much easier to deal with the biting problem.

Greys Who Bite
Like any other parrot, African Greys bite for many different reasons. You may not be their chosen person. Or, if you are afraid that the bird will bite, it probably will. They know who is afraid of them and do their best to meet that person’s expectations.

Domestically bred birds often bite when they are not properly socialized. African Greys have the intelligence of small children. Imagine a young child left their own designs, never learning they can’t have their way whenever they want it. The result is much the same.

Discipline
You should never strike or yell at your Grey. Strong negative reinforcement does not work with parrots. Often the best way to solve behavioral problems is by distracting the bird. For instance, screaming parrots can often be distracted from their yelling by flying them on your finger, or taking them for a walk around the house.

I taught Jing not to squawk in my house by jogging with her at my side the length of the hallway every time she squawked. She hates to jog on the floor, so doesn’t squawk at home. On the other hand, I didn’t want to completely repress a natural parrot behavior, therefore I let her squawk as much as she wants in the car. She goes just about everywhere with me and it can get pretty loud in my car sometimes.

Biting parrots often need to know who is the flock leader (you). Training them with the ‘up’ and ‘down’ command is a good way to establish your dominance. Noted parrot behaviorist Sally Blanchard has an excellent discipline method for wayward parrots that bite. She recommends giving them a strong ‘evil eye’, combined with the word ‘no’.